Trees
are
an
important
part
of
almost
any
landscape.
They
provide
shade
and
visual
interest
to
your
property,
which
can
even
help
increase
the
value
of
your
home.
While
your
trees
may
seem
relatively
low
maintenance
during
the
winter,
they
face
many
potential
problems.
Learning
about
the
most
common
types
of
winter
damage
and
the
strategies
to
prevent
damage
is
important
information
to
add
to
your
landscaping
knowledge.
F
r
o
s
t
H
e
av
e
Frost
heave
isn't
a
major
concern
for
mature
trees,
but
it
can
be
deadly
for
young
trees
and
shrubs.
Frost
heave
occurs
in
areas
where
ground
freezes
tend
to
be
followed
by
immediate
thawing.
This
rapid
freeze
and
thaw
cycle
cause
the
soil
to
shift,
or
heave,
upward.
This
can
cause
a
young
tree
to
uproot
in
severe
cases,
but
even
in
moderate
instances
damage
to
the
roots
can
occurs
due
to
this
movement.
P
r
e
v
en
t
i
o
n
Although
you
can't
control
the
weather,
you
can
take
steps
you
can
take
to
mitigate
frost
heave.
The
easiest
is
to
use
mulch,
particularly
around
younger
trees
and
shrubs.
A
two-
to
three-inch
layer
of
mulch
spread
over
the
root
zone
of
the
young
tree
will
insulate
the
soil
against
these
rapid
temperature
fluctuations.
Straw,
bark
nuggets,
and
wood
chips
all
make
a
suitable
mulch
material.
The
only
caution
is
that
the
mulch
shouldn't
rest
directly
against
the
young
tree
trunk,
since
this
can
lead
to
rot
issues
on
the
tree's
bark.
S
un
s
ca
l
d
Sunscald
is
primarily
a
problem
on
deciduous
trees,
particularly
younger
trees
or
those
with
thinner
bark.
It's
most
often
seen
on
the
southern-
facing
side
of
a
trunk,
simply
because
this
is
the
side
exposed
to
the
winter
sun.
Sunscald
occurs
when
the
air
temperature
is
below
freezing,
but
direct
sun
exposure
heats
the
vascular
tissue
beneath
the
bark.
The
warmth
causes
sap
to
begin
flowing,
but
it
will
freeze
as
soon
as
the
warmth
fades
and
freezing
temperatures
return.
When
this
happens
repeatedly,
discoloration
or
cracked
bark
can
occur.
In
severe
cases,
the
tree
can
die
from
the
damages.
P
r
e
v
en
t
i
o
n
You
can
prevent
sunscald
by
simply
shading
the
trunk
from
the
winter
sun
when
temperatures
are
below
freezing.
Tree
wrap
is
often
used
by
arborists
to
achieve
this.
Once
the
trunk
is
wrapped,
you
do
not
need
to
do
anything
else
until
spring.
Once
frost
danger
passes,
remove
the
wrap
until
the
following
winter.
If
you
leave
the
wrap
on
during
spring
and
summer,
it
can
restrict
the
growth
of
the
trunk.
D
e
s
i
cca
t
i
o
n
Where
sunscald
mainly
affects
deciduous
trees,
desiccation
is
a
problem
for
evergreens.
Both
broadleaf
and
needle
evergreens
can
be
damaged
or
even
killed
by
desiccation.
Desiccation
occurs
when
cold,
dry
winter
winds
wick
too
much
moisture
out
of
the
foliage.
The
result
is
brown,
dead
foliage
that
will
drop
off.
If
too
much
foliage
is
lost,
the
tree
will
weaken
and
eventually
die.
In
some
cases
the
damage
is
immediately
apparent.
You
may
not
notice
any
browning
or
leaf
drop
until
the
tree
resumes
active
growth
in
spring
or
early
summer.
P
r
e
v
en
t
i
o
n
The
main
cause
of
desiccation
is
water
loss.
You
can
help
counteract
this
by
providing
light
watering
to
your
evergreen
trees
during
the
winter
months.
Water
only
when
temperatures
are
above
freezing
and
if
there
has
been
little
to
no
moisture
in
the
previous
few
weeks.
Providing
a
barrier
against
the
wind
can
also
help.
Burlap
is
most
often
used,
although
plastic
film
can
also
work.
Wrap
the
tree
completely,
leaving
the
top
open
so
air
can
still
reach
inside
the
canopy.
The
covering
is
removed
in
late
winter
so
the
tree
can
resume
normal
growth
as
spring
begins.
You
want
your
landscape
trees
to
look
as
good
at
the
end
of
winter
as
they
did
going
into
fall.
Protecting
against
winter
injury
is
part
of
good
tree
maintenance. Contact us
to learn
more
about
how
proper
care
and
pruning
can
protect
your
trees
during
the
cold
season.
